Aeroport Transfer

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Excursions from Istanbul, Turkey

You've seen Istanbul's top sights, now get out of the city. Here are the best one-day and overnight trips:
Bosphorus CruiseA half-day or day-long excursion up the strait that runs through Istanbul, visiting castles, palaces... and—if you're like me—fish restaurants! More...
Princes IslandsA voyage to these islands just offshore from Istanbul is a great way to spend a day...or even overnight. More...
Beaches near IstanbulThe beaches will be crowded on any hot summer day, but they still provide a refreshing getaway. More...
BursaZoom south across the Sea of Marmara in a catamaran to see this first capital of the Ottoman Empire, with its fine old mosques, silk weaving trade, and thermal spas. Make it an overnight and see Iznik (Nicaea) as well. More...
EdirneComfortable day-long excursion by bus or car to see the fine old mosques and lively bazaars of the second Ottoman capital, delightfully free of tourist crowds. More...
Çanakkale & GallipoliLong day-trip by bus or car to see the Dardanelles, the Gallipoli battlefields, and even ancient Troy; possible in a day, but better as an overnight. More...
EphesusBest-preserved classical city in the entire Mediterranean, a must-see; go by plane for the day, or overnight. More...
CappadociaIt's possible to see the cave churches in this picturesque "moonscape" region in an overnight trip by plane, but two nights is better, and three nights is best. See Turkey in 6 Days.

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Bergama (Pergamum), Turkey

Bergama (ancient Pergamum), 100 km (62 miles) north of Izmir and 250 km (155 miles) south of Çanakkale, was renowned in Hellenic and Roman times for its great library and as the medical center where Galen laid the foundation for medical practice.
Pergamum (or Pergamon) was an important kingdom during the second century BC, having grown from a city-state captured by Alexander the Great.
Upon Alexander's death in 323 BC, his generals fought for control of the parts of his empire. Lysimachus took command of the Aegean coast, but was killed in 281 BC, leaving Pergamum in the control of Philetarus the Eunuch, who used Lysimachus's treasure to increase his power.
Philetarus's nephew and heirs built on their inheritance, and Eumenes II (197-159 BC), King of Pergamum, became the most powerful ruler in Anatolia. He beautified his capital city by building the Altar of Zeus, by constructing numerous buildings in the "middle city" on the slope of the Acropolis, and by expanding and beautifying the Asclepion medical center. More...
Eumenes II's son Attalus III was not his father's equal. Pergamum's power declined, and on Attalus's death in 129 BC, the Kingdom of Pergamum was willed to Rome and became its Province of Asia (Minor).
Roman Pergamum was still a rich, important city. Some of its most important monuments, such as the Temple of Trajan, date from Roman times.
Modern Bergama (BEHR-gah-mah, pop. 100,000) is a center for farming, light industry, schools, gold mining, and of course tourism. It's a l-o-n-g spread-out city. It's 7 km (4.35 miles) from the north-south highway and the bus terminal to the center of Bergama around the Bergama Müzesi (archeological museum). From the museum, it's another 5.35 km (3.3 miles) to the summit of the lofty Acropolis. More...
Guided tours are available from Izmir,. Most travelers visit Bergama on day-trips from Izmir or Ayvalik, or stop to see the sights on their itinerary between Çanakkale and Ephesus, but Bergama does have a few suitable hotels if you decide to spend the night here.
Bus is the best way of getting to Bergama. The town is long and spread out, so if you don't have your own vehicle, expect to take some taxi rides. More...

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Kemal Atatürk, Turkish National Hero

Kemal Atatürk (1881-1938), Turkey's national hero, was a military commander of genius and a statesman with few equals.
If you visit Turkey you'll want to know at least the basics about Atatürk because his image is everywhere and his influence is still alive generations after his death (in 1938).
What did he do? He took a defeated, demoralized, poverty-stricken medieval theocratic monarchy and reshaped it into a vibrant, progressive, democratic secular republic. In other words, he turned black into white almost single-handedly.
A boy named Mustafa was born into the family of a minor official in Ottoman Salonika (Thessaloniki) in 1881. Excelling at mathematics in school, his teacher gave him the nickname Kemal (Excellent). He went on to attend the Ottoman military staff college (Harbiye) in Istanbul.
He joined other "Young Turks" to reform Turkey's government and society in the last years of the 19th century. Unfortunately, it was his far less talented colleagues who took power from the sultan and led the empire into a disastrous alliance with the German Empire during World War I.
During the Gallipoli campaign (1915-1916), Lieutenant-Colonel Mustafa Kemal was instrumental in stopping the advance of the Allied forces intent on seizing Istanbul. He commanded from the front lines with incredible courage, and was hailed as a war hero.
After the war, the Allies tried to seize most of Turkey's territory and resources, leaving little for the Turks. Kemal fled from occupied Istanbul to Anatolia and rallied the population in defense of their homeland. He summoned representatives, organized a republican government and army and, while serving as head of goverment also commanded the army against several powerful invading forces. By 1923 the republican armies had driven all the invaders out, and the new government in Ankara was secure--if poverty-stricken.
Granted the surname Atatürk ("Father of the Turks") by a grateful parliament, Kemal made peace--and even established friendly relations--with Turkey's erstwhile enemies. Before his untimely death in 1938, he spearheaded his country's economic recovery and laid the foundations for Turkey's neutrality in World War II.
It may well be said that without Atatürk, there would be no modern Turkish Republic, well ahead of its Islamic neighbors in democratic, social, cultural and commercial progress.
His principles, still revered by most Turks, include:
• Democracy
• Secularism
• Equality for women
• Freedom of Religion
• Free public co-educational schools
• "Peace at Home, Peace in the World"
• No dreams of territorial expansion (despite the Ottoman Empire's former greatness)
Atatürk's memory and legacy are revered and protected by law. Nobody in Turkey jokes about Atatürk. During your visit, refrain from any light-hearted or disrespectful references to the national hero.

Atatürk, by Lord Kinross (JPD Balfour)The standard biography in English of the great Turkish general and statesman whose military and political genius and courage brought forth the modern Turkish republic. It's as exciting to read as any novel.
Atatürk, by Andrew MangoWritten decades after Lord Kinross's book, Professor Mango covers the same ground but looks at Atatürk's life somewhat differently, and the picture that emerges is similar, but with important differences. Both books are a joy to read, as gripping as novels.
An Island in Istanbul: At Home on Heybeliada, by M. A. WhittenThe Whitten's Istanbul is a world away from whatever you may have heard or experienced about this ever-intriguing city, and yet it is recognizably Istanbul in all its beauty, frustration and reward. More...
Life with a View: A Turkish Quest, by Toni SepedaToni Sepeda, PhD, has lived and taught in Turkey for years, but she and partner Craig Manley really "get into the country" by building a vacation home on the Black Sea coast east of Istanbul—a ten-year project. More...
Portrait of a Turkish Family, by Irfan OrgaOne family's personal history, from the graceful lifestyle of the Ottoman nobility through the cataclysm of World War I and the fall of the empire, to rebirth and renewal in the modern Turkish Republic. An excellent read! It's the best view of what happened to real people during this tumultuous time. More...
Turkey: Bright Sun, Strong Tea, by Tom BrosnahanMy own humorous travel memoir of my first years in Turkey as a Peace Corps Volunteer teaching English, my first guidebook (Frommer's Turkey on $5 a Day), and later adventures. More...
A Turkish Tapestry: The Shakirs of Istanbul, by Shirin DevrimThe Shakir family produced grand vezirs, generals, poets and playboys, including Cevat Shakir, the "Fisherman of Halicarnassus," and Aliye Berger, the famous—scandalous!— Istanbul painter. The story of this prominent family is alternately entertaining, instructive, and nearly incredible.

The price you pay for your book will be exactly the same whether you go to these booksellers via these links or some other way. But if you click on these links, you help me to provide free travel guidance to you and literally millions of other travelers—some of whom you're bound to meet in Turkey.

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Gallipoli Battlefields, Turkey

The World War I battle for control of the Dardanelles (Hellespont) strait was fought mainly on Turkey's Gallipoli peninsula, with appalling casualties. Around 100,000 were killed and 400,000 wounded during the nine-month campaign (1915-1916).
You can visit the battlefields on an excursion from Istanbul by car or bus, even in one day on your own, or with a tour organized by Backpackers Travel.
Another way is on a six-day self-drive tour from Istanbul via the Dardanelles, Gallipoli, Çanakkale, Troy, Bergama (Pergamum), Ephesus and Kusadasi. (More...)
Invading armies and navies have coveted the strategic Dardanelles strait since the days of the Trojans because it controls sea traffic between the Black Sea, the Sea of Marmara, and the Aegean/Mediterranean. At only 1.2 km wide at its narrowest point (Kilitbahir), and over 100 meters deep, it's also the key to Istanbul: warships could conquer the city if they could get through the Dardanelles.
The British navy wanted very much to get its battleships through the Dardanelles and attack Constantinople to knock the Ottoman Empire, an ally of the Central Powers, out of the war.
Ottoman forces, some of whom were commanded by Lieutenant Colonel Mustafa Kemal (later Atatürk) knew that if they did, it might mean the conquest of their country.
Today, the Gallipoli battlefields are silent, preserved as a national park strewn with marble and bronze monuments, among the most emotionally touching places to visit in Turkey.
You can visit the Gallipoli battlefields and nearby Troy from Istanbul on an excursion by bus or by car.
Several companies run tours of the battlefields, with knowledgeable guides. If you don't have your own car, it's best to take a tour because the battlefields are spread out.
You could hike around here for a day and see a lot, but with a tour you get to see it all, enjoy a leisurely lunch, and take a swim as well! Bicycle would be a good way to tour, but no place rents decent bikes, as far as I know.
The best base for visits to Gallipoli, the Dardanelles and Troy is the town of Çanakkale, on the Dardanelles' southern shore. Eceabat, on the northern shore, is closer, but has fewer accommodations.
The nearest major airport is Istanbul, although Çanakkale has a small airfield to which charter "taxi flights" can be arranged from Istanbul.
If you plan to attend the annual Anzac Day commemorations (April 24th & 25th), plan and reserve well in advance!

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Troy (Truva), Turkey

For most of the last 3000 years, people assumed that Homer's Iliad was fiction, and that Troy (Truva in Turkish) never existed.
Then in 1863 a British expatriate named Frank Calvert discovered ancient ruins at a place in western Turkey called Hisarlik (maps), and was convinced they were Troy.
Heinrich Schliemann showed up in 1868, provided money for more digging, and took credit for discovering Troy.
Guided tours to Troy and the Gallipoli battlefields run from Istanbul, especially in April around ANZAC Day. (Here's a good Six-day self-drive tour of Troy, Gallipoli, Pergamum and Ephesus).
Although you can visit Troy from Istanbul in one day, I don't recommend it. The drive (or bus ride) is about five hours each way. It's much better to make an overnight excursion by rental car or by bus, including a guided minibus tour or self-guided hiking tour of the Gallipoli battlefields.
Some visitors think "there's not a lot to see at Troy," and that's true compared to Turkey's hundreds of other ancient cities such as Pergamum, Ephesus and Aphrodisias.
But I get a thrill just from seeing Troy's ancient walls, climbing around the ruins, and gazing across the Troad (the plains of Troy) towards the waters of the Dardanelles and the hills of Gallipoli beyond.
Troy is impressive for its great age (the oldest ruins date from 3000 BC) and beautiful situation. The hokey wooden horse is just for fun (especially for kids).
The movie, with Brad Pitt and Diane Kruger, was released in May 2004.
If you plan to stay a night in nearby Çanakkale, it makes sense to include Troy in your itinerary, especially if you're heading south—it's just off the main Izmir highway a few kilometers.

Çanakkale, Dardanelles, Turkey

Çanakkale is your best base for visiting the Gallipoli battlefields and the ruins of Troy (although you can visit on a whirlwind day-trip from Istanbul, or a more comfortable overnight excursion by car or bus, or a Six-Day Self-Drive Tour from Istanbul to Ephesus).
Located on the southern shore of the Dardanelles strait (Hellespont), Çanakkale was the major strong-point in the defense of the Dardanelles from the time of the Trojans through World War I.
Today Çanakkale is a pleasant town with adequate hotels to serve travelers using the Dardanelles car ferries (Çanakkale-Eceabat and Gelibolu-Lapseki).
The local museum is fairly good.
Çanakkale's hotels are especially crowded on ANZAC Day (April 25th) when the World War I campaign is commemorated. (See Gallipoli for more.)
It's possible to visit Çanakkale, Troy and the Gallipoli battlefields in one day from Istanbul, but the travel time between Istanbul and Çanakkale is between five and six hours (340 km/211 miles), meaning that you may be traveling for 12 hours and visiting the sights for much less than that. An overnight excursion makes more sense, and a two-night trip is even better.
Atlasjet has a daily flight from Istanbul to Çanakkale, but it's usually at night—and only one flight a day—so it doesn't help much if you want to make the excursion in one day. By the time you go to Istanbul airport, pass through two security checks, check in and wait for your flight, collect your luggage in Çanakkale, and make your way from Çanakkale airport (CKZ) into town, I wonder if it's worth it.
To see Gallipoli, Troy, Ephesus, and Turkey's Aegean coast, try this Six-day Self-drive Tour from CMS Turizm & Travel.

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Thrace, Dardanelles & Gallipoli

Thrace is the corridor between Europe and Asia (maps).
It's also the European part of Turkey, west of Istanbul bordering on Bulgaria and Greece.
Its chief city, Edirne, is off the tourist track even though it boasts interesting architecture, good food and an unhurried pace.
But Thrace is known mostly for the Dardanelles (Hellespont, Çanakkale Bogazi), the strategic strait controlling access between the Aegean, Marmara and Black Seas.
Armies have fought for control of the Dardanelles from the time of the Trojan War to the World War I Gallipoli campaign.
Çanakkale is the best base for visiting the Gallipoli battlefields and nearby Troy. It's especially crowded on April 25th, ANZAC Day, when the battle is commemorated.
Car ferries cross the Dardanelles frequently every day.
You can visit Thrace, the Dardanelles, Gallipoli and Troy by car or bus from Istanbul—even in one day. (More...)
Argeus Tourism & Travel offers a Six-day Self-drive Tour to Çanakkale, the Gallipoli battlefields, Troy, Ephesus, and Turkey's Aegean coast. More...

Sea of Marmara, Turkey

The "Marble Sea" gets its romantic name from ancient marble quarries on Marmara (Marble) Island.
The Marmara is one of Turkey's many maritime highways. Fast catamaran ferryboats zoom cars and passengers across it connecting Istanbul's Yenikapi Feribot Terminali with the cities of Yalova (for Bursa and Iznik) and Bandirma (for Çanakkale, Balikesir and Izmir) (map).
Here's where to go and what to see in the region:
Bandirma: A railhead and ferry terminal town midway along the south shore, it's important to the people who live there, but you'll probably just be passing through on the car/passenger ferry.
Bursa: First capital of the Ottoman Empire, Bursa is a historic city perched on the slopes of Uludag (2543 meters, 8343 feet). Bursa is noted for its beautiful early Ottoman mosques, roast lamb kebap, silk weaving, delicious fruits, camel-skin shadow puppets, and automobile factories. Adjoining Bursa to the west is Çekirge, noted for its hot mineral-water baths since Roman times.
Çanakkale: Famed for the cannons in its fortress, which once kept enemy warships from passing through the Dardanelles, Çanakkale is now famous for the car ferries that cross from the Gallipoli peninsula, making it a prime travel nexus. It's also the best base for visits to the Gallipoli battlefields and to the ruins of ancient Troy.
Edirne: A historic city seldom visited by tourists even though it's an easy day-trip west of Istanbul, Edirne has a good bazaar and many historic mosques, including the Selimiye, the masterwork of the Ottomans' finest architect, Mimar Sinan.
Gallipoli: Always of strategic importance, the Gallipoli peninsula is famous for the terrible World War I battles between Allied and Ottoman troops. Today the battlefields are a national park, and a poignant memorial to the half-million casualties and fatalities of the campaign.
Iznik (Nicaea): Everybody knows Nicaea (Iznik) because of the Nicene Creed and the two important ecumenical councils held here in 325 and 787, but you should come to see its impressive Roman walls, historic mosques, good little museum, beautiful Byzantine tomb, and pretty lakeside setting.
Thrace & Dardanelles: The eastern part of the Thracian peninsula is the European portion of Turkey, holding historic Edirne (Adrianople), the Gallipoli peninsula and Dardanelles (Hellespont) strait, and lots of sunflower fields.
Yalova: This town on the southeastern shore serves as the port for ferries to and from Istanbul, serving Bursa and Iznik (Nicaea). A few kilometers south of Yalova are the hot mineral water baths of Termal, famous since Roman times.
The Sea of Marmara is bordered to the north by the peninsula of Thrace, to the south by the peninsula of Anatolia (Asia Minor), and to the west by the peninsula of Gallipoli. The sea was once rich in fish (and still yields some), and the lands surrounding it are rich agricultural areas which produce sunflowers, wine and table grapes, grains, and fruits in abundance.
The Marmara has always had strategic importance because it is the major waterway linking the Black Sea and the Aegean and Mediterranean via the Bosphorus and the Dardanelles. Odysseus (Ulysses) and his mates, Jason and the Argonauts, British World War I submarines and countless other adventurers have sailed across the Marmara on their quests.

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Turkish Belly Dancing & Dancers

Belly dancing is very popular in Turkey. Night clubs are the most common venues, but belly dancers are also hired göbek atmak ("to toss the belly-button") at weddings, circumcisions, and even...trade shows!
Far from being a resuscitated tourism show, this is a very old art form still enjoyed by Turks of all classes and ages. It may be the descendant of ancient Anatolian fertility dances.
The dancer is usually a woman with exceedingly well-trained abdominal muscles, and it doesn't hurt to be shapely. She accompanies her moves with clangs on small finger cymbals called zil (Turkish for "cymbal" or "bell").
During the dance, appreciative observers stuff paper money into the few, scant recesses of her costume. She dances close enough that they can do that; and when she dances close enough lots of men want to do that.
So far as I know, belly dancers do not yet accept credit cards in this fashion.
Belly dancing is not limited to women, however. At any good Turkish belly dance party, at least one brave guy is bound to jump up and throw some moves of his own. It's usually difficult to judge his proficiency because he's fully clothed (thank goodness).
In more Islamic-ly conservative countries like Egypt, both men and women may perform the dance, sometimes in pairs, fully clothed except at exclusively touristic performances.
It's easy to see how belly dancing could have been a fertility rite in ancient times, particularly in a place like Aphrodisias, city of Aphrodite, Goddess of Love, or at the Artemision (Temple of Artemis) in Ephesus.
To buy belly dance costumes, jewelry, videos, music and accessories, check out Tulumba.com. They'll ship purchases to you anywhere in the world.
Here are two websites with video clips of bellydancing:
— Aziza Nawal
— Johara and her Snakedance Productions

The Bosphorus, Istanbul, Turkey

The Bosphorus is the 32 km (20-mi)-long strait which joins the Sea of Marmara with the Black Sea in Istanbul, and separates the continents of Europe and Asia.
It's great for a half-day cruise north toward the Black Sea. You can return to Istanbul by land along the European shore and see all the sights.
The width of the Bosphorus varies from 500 meters (1640 feet) to 3 km (2 miles), its depth from 50 to 120 meters (164 to 394 feet), averaging about 60 meters (197 feet) deep.
It runs right through the heart of Istanbul, past the Istanbul Modern Art Museum, several Ottoman palaces, at least two fortresses, forested hills, and shore villages with Ottoman architecture. (For self-guided touring, I've divided it into the Southern Bosphorus and Northern Bosphorus.)
Traditionally called Bogaziçi (boh-AHZ-ee-chee, "Within the Strait"), more recently it's been called the Istanbul Bogazi, Istanbul Strait, perhaps to differentiate it from the Dardanelles (Hellespont), called the Çanakkale Bogazi.
Its English name comes from a Greek legend: Zeus had an affair with a beautiful women named Io. When Hera, his wife, discovered his infidelity, she turned Io into a cow and created a horsefly to sting her on the rump. Io jumped clear across the strait. Thus bous = cow, and poros = crossing-place: Bosphorus = "crossing-place of the cow."
Recent marine archeological research in the chill, deep waters of the Black Sea has revealed sunken cities on the underwater slopes along the Turkish coast.
Geological evidence supports the theory that in ancient times the northern end of the Bosphorus was blocked by earth and rock. The Black Sea had no outlet (like Lake Van today), and its water level was below that of the Aegean Sea, the Sea of Marmara, and the Bosphorus.
However, an earthquake destroyed the Bosphorus blockage, releasing a deluge of water from the Bosphorus into the Black Sea, raising the water level and flooding its coastal communities. So it may well be that the Bosphorus is the source of Noah's flood and the legend of Noah's Ark! (Mount Ararat is also in Turkey.)
The Bosphorus has been a waterway of the highest importance since ancient times. Ulysses passed through. Byzas, who founded Byzantium (later Constantinople, later Istanbul) sailed up and down looking for the perfect place to found his village.
In 1452, Mehmet the Conqueror ordered the construction of the mighty fortresses of Rumeli Hisari (Fortress of Europe) and Anadolu Hisari (Fortress of Anatolia) so he could control the strait and prevent reinforcements from reaching the besieged Byzantine capital of Constantinople.
To the Ottomans it was mostly an obstacle: each spring they had to ship their gigantic armies across the strait from Istanbul for campaigns in Anatolia, Syria and Persia.
During World War I, the Bosphorus was the key to the Black Sea and Russia. The Sultan held the key. The Entente powers wanted it. What they failed to get in battle they got by treaty, and British gunboats anchored outside Dolmabahçe Palace.
Today, the way to enjoy the Bosphorus is to take a cruise by traditional ferry or TurYol boat, a self-guided tour of the European shore, or to relax at a tea-house or restaurant along its shores.

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Sadberk Hanim Museum, Istanbul

The Sadberk Hanim Museum (tel +90 (212) 242 3813), Piyasa Caddesi 27-29, on the shore road in Büyükdere just south of Sariyer on the Bosphorus in Istanbul, is a privately-funded museum founded by the Koç family, one of Turkey's richest. It's open daily except Wednesday from 10:00 am to 17:00 (5 pm).
The museum holds not only the family's heirloom collection of Ottoman art and furnishings, but also Anatolian antiquities and Islamic art.
It is a gem of an institution, established in an old waterfront villa and new museum buildings.
The villa, once the summer residence of Manuk Azaryan Efendi, an Ottoman Armenian who was Speaker of the upper house of the Ottoman parliament, has been beautifully restored and now serves as the Art History section of the museum.
Exhibits include coins, Islamic art, Ottoman artifacts, costumes, and ethnographic items: tespih (worry beads) of solid gold; golden, bejewelled tobacco boxes and watches (one bears the sultan's monogram in diamonds); beautiful Kütahya pottery; even a table that once belonged to Napoleon (he's pictured on it, surrounded by his generals).
A number of rooms in the great old house have been arranged and decorated in Ottoman style - the style of the ruling class, obviously. There's a sumptuous maternity room with embroidered cloth and lots of lace, a salon with all the paraphernalia of the Ottoman Turkish coffee ceremony, and a third set up as a circumcision room.
A display case holds a fine collection of Ottoman spoons (the prime dining utensil) made from tortoiseshell, ebony, ivory and other precious materials.
The Sevgi Gönül Building is a modern addition for the museum's Archeological section, featuring artifacts from Anatolia's many civilizations, including Ionic, Hellenic and Hellenistic, Roman and Byzantine, dating from as early as the 6th century BC.
There is also a well-chosen collection of Chinese celadon ware from the 14th to 16th centuries, later Chinese blue-and-white porcelain, and some 18th-century Chinese porcelain made specifically for the Ottoman market.
If you come to Sariyer on a Bosphorus cruise ferry, look to the left as you leave the dock for a yellow wooden house on the shore road about 300 metres to the south - that's the museum.
Plaques are in Turkish and English throughout the museum. A cafe and gift shop are at your service.

Rumeli Hisari Fortress, Istanbul

At the narrowest part of the Bosphorus, Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror ordered the great fortress of Rumeli Hisari to be built on the European shore in order to control commercial and military traffic in preparation for the siege of siege of Constantinople.
He pitted his pashas (generals) against one another, daring them all to be the first to complete his towers and crenellated walls. The competition was fierce, and the huge fortress was completed in only four months.
Once completed, Rumeli Hisari, in concert with Anadolu Hisari on the Asian shore just opposite, controlled all traffic on the Bosphorus, and cut the city off from resupply by sea from the north.
The mighty fortress's useful military life was less than one year. Mehmet's armines conquered the Byzantine capital several months later, and then there was no need for Rumeli Hisari.
The fortress was used as a rather large and impressive Bosphorus toll booth for awhile, then as a barracks, later as a prison, and finally as an open-air theater, but never again as a fortress.
Above the towns of Rumeli Hisari and Bebek you'll notice the New England 19th-century-style architecture of Bogaziçi Üniversitesi (Bosphorus University), formerly Robert College, founded by the American Board for Foreign Missions over a century ago.

Beylerbeyi Palace, Istanbul, Turkey

Beylerbeyi is a "small" Istanbul summer palace overlooking the Bosphorus from its Asian shore.
Built on orders of the Ottoman Sultan Abdulaziz (1861-1876), it's a delightful, if ornate, imperial residence with a fountain in the main salon, the usual sumptuous chambers, Bohemian crystal chandeliers, Sèvres and Chinese vases, and pleasant gardens (closed Monday and Thursday; stay 1-2 hrs)
The palace was often used as a guest house for visiting royalty. Empress Eugénie of France, Shah Nasruddin of Persia, Grand Duke Nicholas of Russia and other worthies enjoyed its comforts.
Sultan Abdulhamid II was deposed by the Young Turks in 1909, and spent the last years of his life (1913-1918) under house arrest at Beylerbeyi.
Much of the furniture in the palace was made by the sultan himself, who was an accomplished cabinet-maker.
Üsküdar and Beylerbeyi have many good waterfront restaurants just right for a pleasant lunch or afternoon snack during sightseeing, as does the village of Çengelköy, a few minutes' ride to the north from Beylerbeyi.
The most enjoyable way to go to Beylerbeyi is by ferryboat from Eminönü.
If you can't find a ferryboat directly to Beylerbeyi, take one to Çengelköy, then a bus or taxi south to Beylerbeyi; or take a ferry to Üsküdar (very frequent) and a bus north to Beylerbeyi.

Dolmabahçe Palace, Istanbul

Dolmabahçe Palace on the European shore of the Bosphorus in Istanbul is a fitting symbol of the magnificence and decadence of the 19th-century Ottoman Empire.
It's just as a sultan's palace should be: huge and sumptuous, with 285 rooms, 43 large salons, a 4000 kg (4-1/2-ton) Bohemian glass chandelier, and a Bosphorus-shore façade nearly a quarter mile (1/2 km) long. It's the grandest of Ottoman imperial palaces (closed Monday & Thursday; stay 2-3 hrs; guided tour required).
The cheapest, most comfortable way to get there is by the Zeytinburnu-Findikli-(Besiktas) tram which runs from Sultanahmet Square down to Eminönü, across the Golden Horn to Karaköy (Galata), then north almost to the palace.
You can walk from Taksim Square downhill to Dolmabahçe (it's about a mile, or 1.6 km), but the walk back uphill is tiring, so you may want to take a taxi.
The palace was designed by Ottoman Armenian architects Karabet and Nikogos Balian for Sultan Abdulmecit (1839-61). When it was finished in 1856, the imperial family moved out of medieval Topkapi Palace to live in European-style opulence.
Kemal Atatürk (1881-1938), founder of the Turkish Republic, died here on November 10, 1938 during a visit to the city.
On the day you visit Dolmabahçe Palace, you may want to consider also visiting the Istanbul Modern Art Museum nearby in Tophane.

Black Sea Coast of Turkey

Alpine forests? Tea plantations? Billions of hazelnuts? World's oldest cherry orchards?
Turkey's Black Sea coast comes as a surprise.
The sky is often grey but the land is green from plentiful rain. Fat dairy cattle munch lush grass and produce the country's best milk and butter. Fresh sardines are a delicacy.
The Black Sea coast (maps) is never crowded because cloud is more common than sun, and the sea water is chilly. But that's fine with the adventurous types who come here for a few days to savor its deep history, its dramatic beauty, its special cuisine, and its prime legend: Jason led his Argonauts along this coast in quest of the Golden Fleece.
Concentrate on the coast east of Sinop, a fortified town with a long history. (The only exception west of Sinop is the small, beautiful seacoast town of Amasra [not Amasya], with its own dramatic fortress and history.)
The coast's prime destination is Trabzon (Trebizond). Other towns worth a look, or good for an overnight are Ordu and Giresun. Samsun is big, bustling and mostly modern, with lots of services but little to see.
Starting from Amasya, you can drive 130 km (81 miles, 2 hours) north to Samsun, then continue 365 km (227 miles, 6 hours) to Trabzon, enjoying the scenery, all in one day, but two days is obviously more relaxed, and three gives you the time to explore in detail.
Bt the way, the weekly car and passenger ferry service between Istanbul and Trabzon that you may have heard about has been discontinued. There is no longer any such service. Details...
From Trabzon, head up into the mountains to the alpine spa and hiking village of Ayder, then up onto the Anatolian plateau with Erzurum as your goal. The short route is via Gümüshane and Bayburt, the longer and more interesting route is via Rize, Hopa, Artvin and Yusufeli in the Kaçkar Mountains.
Click here for maps of Turkey's Black Sea Coast.

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