Termessos has the most dramatic situation of any ancient city in Turkey. Just look at its theater:
High in a mountain defile 38 km (24 miles) north of the Mediterranean coast city of Antalya (map), the walled city of Termessos defied even Alexander the Great in 333 BC.
Now protected within Güllük Dagi National Park, Termessos requires at least half a day (4 or 5 hours, preferably in the morning—start early), and bring a water bottle and snacks or a picnic lunch.
The park opens at 08:30 am in summer. Last entry to the park is at 17:30 (5:30 pm), but you don't have to leave the park until 19:30 (7:30 pm). In winter, the park may open at 08:00 am, and close early if there is bad weather (heavy rain, fog, snow), but otherwise the last entry is often 16:30 (4:30 pm).
In early May 2007, I started driving from Kaleiçi, Antalya at 08:35 am, reached the entrance to the national park at 09:15 am and payed the YTL9.50 admission fee.
Just beyond the park entrance is a restaurant, cafe and snack shop, picnic area, toilets, a small "exhibition room" (museum) of photos of Termessos's ruins, and a forlorn stuffed deer.
Guides wait here on most days (particularly weekends) for those who might want to employ them for a tour of the ruins—not a bad idea if you have a lively interest in archeology, as Termessos is an unrestored site: signs mark the major buildings, and the principal paths are kept mostly clear of brush, but you still get a good Indiana Jones feeling as you poke around in the scrub looking at the fields of tumbled limestone blocks.
From the park entrance, I drove the 9 km (5.6 miles) up a winding, one-lane switchback road to the archeological site parking lot, arriving at 09:30 am, an hour after leaving Antalya.
At the site parking lot are a few picnic tables, a sign saying "No Picnicking" in Turkish, toilets, a tiny ranger post, a temple and propylaeum dedicated to Emperor Hadrian and the goddess Artemis, and an ancient cistern.
From the parking lot, I walked fairly slowly along the rough path uphill toward the city heights.
After 10 minutes I was at the Lower City Walls. A few more minutes brought me to the City Gate, and another 10 minutes to the Gymnasium and Baths.
By 10:00 am, after a half-hour hike from the parking lot, I was at the Upper City Walls and Drainage System, on level ground at the top of the valley.
A few minutes walking on level (but rough) ground took me to the spectacular Theater with its vast views and precipitous site, teetering on the rim of a steep defile.
Major sights at the top include the Upper Agora, Odeon-Bouleuterion, Hereon (monumental tomb), Cistern with Five Partitions, Colonnaded Street, and the Corinth Temple.
After a look at the Corinth Temple, I started down the rocky path to the parking lot and arrived just over 16 minutes later. My visit to the site, including walking up the hill, lasted two hours. One hour would be too little, three might also be fine, four would be too much, unless you plan to bushwhack to the Southern Necropolis and/or the fire watchtower at the very top of the valley. The paths through the scrub to these places were not cleared at the time of my visit.
Seeing Termessos requires climbing over rough rock (some huge stones) and perhaps walking a bit in scrubby, scratchy brush. It is not an easy place to walk. Spraining an ankle or two is easy to accomplish, so be careful.
To reach Termessos from Antalya, leave the city following signs for the Otogar (bus terminal), then signs for Burdur, Korkuteli, Denizli and Mugla. The park entrance is off the Burdur-Korkuteli highway.
Visit on a day excursion from Antalya, or stop for a half day going to or from Antalya along the Burdur or Korkuteli highways on your way to or from Pamukkale and Denizli.
You should consider combining your visit to Termessos with one to the Karain Cave, 19 km (12 miles) east of the Termessos archeological site parking lot. The two sites make a good day excursion, and you can be back in Antalya in time for a late lunch and a swim.
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