Taxis in Istanbul, Turkey

You will not have a great experience taking one of Istanbul's 20,000 yellow taxis.
The best you can hope for is an acceptable experience: the cab takes you where you want to go by the shortest route, and you pay the correct fare as shown on the meter.
Far too often, you are likely to have a bad experience:
1. The taxi refuses to take you where you want to go because the distance is not far enough to amount to a large enough fare. No matter that you have lots of luggage, or can't walk well, or are carrying a baby, or simply have a right to go where you want to go. Tough luck!
2. The taxi takes you where you want to go, but refuses to run the meter, and you are charged an exorbitant fare, which you can only reduce by arguing unpleasantly with someone who does not speak your language.
3. The taxi runs the meter and takes you where you want to go by a roundabout route which wastes your time and cost far more than it should.
4. The trip goes okay, but the driver expects a big tip because you're a foreigner (Turks don't tip taxi drivers).
5. The driver drives like a maniac, seeming happily to imperil not only his own life, but that of other drivers, and yours as well.
There is some good news: the first four rules above apply mostly (but dependably) to taxis accepting fares in and around Sultanahmet Square and other super-touristy areas. (The last one applies to taxis in most of the world.)
How to Avoid Unpleasantness
1. Have your hotel call a taxi from a local taxi stand so that you have someone to complain to if service is not acceptable.
2. From the airport, use a reserved taxi from Taxi Reservations, or a private transfer service in a comfortable Mercedes-Benz minivan that costs little more than a taxi. More...
3. Walk or take the tram away from Sultanahmet to another district (Sirkeci, Eminönü) and take a taxi from there. (Drivers cheat far less often in other districts of Istanbul.)
4. Use public transport! (Tram, Metro, Bus, Tünel, Füniküler, Sea Bus, ferryboat, suburban train.) In fact, Istanbul traffic is now so heavy that travel by public transport is often faster by tram and Metro than by taxi. (Here are the city's traffic webcams.) It is frequent, reasonably comfortable, and using an Akbil pass a one-hour, 15-km trip all the way across the city need cost no more than the first minute in a taxi.
More About Istanbul Taxis
Most are powered by clean-burning natural gas, and all have digital meters which the drivers are required by law to run.
If your driver doesn't start the taksimetre, or tries to haggle at the start of the trip instead of running it, just point to the meter emphatically and say Taksimetre! (TAHK-see-MEHT-treh) It'll probably be cheaper on the meter than if you let him just charge you what he wants at the end of your trip.
As the driver starts the meter it will flash the rate type:
—Gündüz (GURN-durz) means Day (06:00 am to 23:59 (11:59 pm). The drop rate is YTL2, and each kilometer YTL1.3
—Gece (GEH-jeh) means Night (24:00/12:00 am midnight to 05:59 am). The drop rate is YTL3, and each kilometer YTL1.95.
The Gündüz fare for the 15- to 25-minute ride between Sultanahmet and Taksim Square is about YTL10.
For the 35- to 75-minute ride from Atatürk Airport to Sultanahmet the Gündüz fare is about YTL25. From the airport to Taksim Square, about YTL30.
The Gündüz fare from Sariyer, on the Northern European shore of the Bosphorus near the Black Sea, to Galata Bridge is about YTL50.
Many taxis are small yellow cars that seat two in the rear seat comfortably, three in a pinch (or if you're all endomorphs). One person can sit in the right-front passenger seat, so the total a taxi can carry is four passengers (plus the driver), though most drivers prefer three passengers. I doubt that a driver will allow five passengers unless he has a larger car than the standard size (there are some larger ones).
For private transfer services in Mercedes-Benz minivans that cost little more than a taxi, click here. It's good for any trip for which you can plan in advance, and is much more pleasant, comfortable and secure.
Turks don't tip taxi drivers, they round up the fare. If it ends up being, say, YTL9.75, a Turk will just round it up to YTL10. In many cases if the fare is YTL10.25, the driver will require only YTL10, and not bother with the change.
As a foreigner, your driver may assume you'll give a tip, but you needn't unless the driver provides some special service, such as helping with lots of heavy luggage.

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