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2 Ağustos 2009 Pazar

Topkapi Sarayi (Palace) Museum

Home of the Ottoman sultans for nearly 400 years, Topkapi Sarayi ("Palace of the Cannon Gate") was the seraglio, the heart of the vast Ottoman Empire, ruled by the monarch who lived in Topkapi's hundreds of rooms with hundreds of concubines, children, and white and black servants.
The domes of Topkapi's Harem dominate the Golden Horn.
Because Topkapi is No. 1 on everyone's list of Istanbul sights, get there when it opens (usually 9 am; closed Tuesday) and go straight to the Harem, which can only be seen by guided tour, and the tours fill up early.
After the Harem tour you can stroll the palace's spacious grounds and four courtyards at your leisure.
Don't miss the Treasury in the 3rd courtyard, with its incredible gems, gold, and works of art.
Topkapi as seen from the Bosphorus.
(For a bittersweet romantic scene that actually happened at Topkapi, see my Bright Sun, Strong Tea excerpt entitled "Tears at Topkapi.")
When you're done at Topkapi, head for Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia), right next door, and the Blue Mosque, next door to Ayasofya on the Byzantine Hippodrome.

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Ottoman Turkish Architecture

The Ottoman sultans saw themselves as successors to the Byzantine emperors, and in some ways they continued the tradition of Byzantine architecture.
Istanbul’s Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia, the Church of the Divine Wisdom) was the model on which Ottoman religious archtecture was built. Great architects such as Mimar Sinan studied the thousand-year-old church, learned its lessons and adapted them to the requirements of Islamic worship.
Islam forbids the depiction of “creatures with immortal souls” so there’s no temptation to idolatry. This meant that Islamic architects could not fill their great mosques with portraits of saints, angels, cherubs or beasts mythical or actual. Instead the Muslim masters used geometric designs, rich materials such as colored stone, exotic woods, gold and mother-of-pearl to make magnificence.
Although Ottoman architects designed homes, palaces, bridges, arsenals, drydocks and other important civil works, the great imperial mosques are their most impressive and enduring monuments.

The Ottoman (Turkish) Empire

Starting as a small warrior band raiding the Byzantine frontier, the Ottoman Turks built an empire from Morocco to Iran, from the deserts of Iraq and Arabia to the gates of Vienna.
As the power of the Seljuk Turkish Sultanate of Rum weakened in the late 1200s, warrior chieftains claimed the lands of northwestern Anatolia bordering on the Byzantine Empire.
Ertugrul Gazi (EHR-too-rool gah-zee) ruled the lands around Sögüt, a town between Bursa and Eskisehir. Upon his death in 1281 his son Osman, from whom the empire took its name, expanded the territory to 16,000 square kilometers.
Osman's son Orhan conquered Iznik (Nicaea) and took his armies across the Dardanelles and into Thrace and Europe by 1362.
By 1452 the Ottomans controlled almost all of the former Byzantine lands except the great "Second Rome" of Constantinople. In 1453 Mehmet the Conqueror took the city and made it his capital, extinguishing the 1100-year-old Byzantine Empire forever.
The reign of Süleyman the Magnificent (1520-1566) was the Ottoman golden age. The brilliance of the sultan's court and the might of his armies outshone those of England's Henry VIII, France's François I, and Holy Roman Emperor Charles V.
But after Süleyman, it was all downhill as a succession of more or less incompetent sultans depended upon their Grand Vezirs (prime ministers) to run the empire.
The Ottoman sultanate lasted for over 600 years, but its last three centuries were marked by stagnation and decline. By the 1800s the Ottomans had fallen far behind the rest of Europe in science, technology, industry, education, commerce and military might.
Reformist sultans such as Selim III (1789-1807) and Mahmut II (1808-1839) succeeded in pushing Ottoman bureaucracy, society and culture ahead, but not in curing all the empire's ills.
By the late 1800s, the Turkish Empire was the "Sick Man of Europe," with the Great Powers of Europe waiting by its bedside to seize his rich lands.
Impetuous military graduates—the Young Turks—grabbed power from the autocratic Sultan Abdülhamid II in 1908 and declared a constitutional government, but they soon became an ineffective oligarchy.
When Enver Pasha, the Young Turk strong man, allied the empire with Germany in World War I, its fate was sealed. The Ottomans were defeated in World War I.
After the war, the empire was abolished in 1923 by Kemal Atatürk and replaced with the modern Turkish Republic.
Ottoman culture has given us a splendid legacy of art, architecture and domestic refinement, as a visit to Istanbul's Topkapi Palace readily shows.

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Yerebatan Saray Cistern, Istanbul

Beneath Istanbul lie hundreds of gloomy Byzantine cisterns. They're left from the days when Istanbul was Constantinople.
The grandest of all is Yerebatan Saray Sarniçi, called the Basilica (or Sunken Palace) Cistern because of its size (70 x 140 meters, or 2.4 acres), its capacity (80,000 cubic meters—over 21 million US gallons) and its 336 marble columns.
Remember the scene in the old James Bond movie From Russia With Love when Bond is rowing in a small boat through a forest of marble columns? That scene was filmed in Yerebatan.
Walkways and atmospheric lighting were installed during the 1990s so you can see all its curious corners. There's even a little cafe for drinks and snacks.
Yerebatan is in Sultanahmet Square, at the northeastern end of the Hippodrome, just off Divan Yolu, and across the street from Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia). The entrance (see the photo to the right) is on Yerebatan Caddesi; the exit is opposite Ayasofya on Alemdar Caddesi.
A visit can take anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour. There's a few dollars' admission fee.

Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia), Istanbul

The Church of the Divine Wisdom (Hagia Sophia in Greek) in Sultanahmet, Istanbul, is one of the most impressive and important buildings ever constructed.
Its wide, flat dome was a daring engineering feat in the 6th century, and architects still marvel at the building's many innovations.
Called Hagia Sophia in Greek, Sancta Sophia in Latin, Ayasofya in Turkish, it was built on the site of Byzantium's acropolis (map) by Emperor Justinian (527-65 AD) in 537 AD.
Ayasofya was the greatest church in Christendom, and was meant to be. According to Prof. Robert Osterhout, it was built to surpass the gigantic Church of St Polyeuchtos erected by Julia Anitzia, scion of the line of Theodosian emperors.
Julia meant her church, a "recreation" of the Temple of Jerusalem, to symbolize her wealth, power and legitimate claim to the throne of Byzantium. Justinian had to out-build her to establish his own legitimacy—and he did.
His church remained the largest church ever built until St Peter's Basilica was constructed in Rome a thousand years later. (Julia's church, by the way, was destroyed by an earthquake. You can see a few pitiful ruins of it near the traffic under/overpass between the Istanbul Belediye Sarayi [City Hall] and Aqueduct of Valens [Bozdogan Kemeri](map).
Being the world's most impressive building, it's no wonder that Mehmet the Conqueror proclaimed it a mosque soon after his conquest of the city from the Byzantines in 1453.
It served as Istanbul's most revered mosque until 1935 when Atatürk, recognizing its world-historical significance, had it proclaimed a museum, as it is now.
Although most of the building is still a museum, a room on the east side was opened in 2007 as a prayer-place (Ibadete Açik Kismi), and the call to prayer is proclaimed from the minaret above it.
Ayasofya is awe-inspiring—one of the first things to see when you're in Istanbul. Luckily, it's right next to Topkapi Palace, the Blue Mosque and the Byzantine Hippodrome, and right across the street from Yerebatan, the Sunken Palace Cistern.
The 30 million gold tesserae (tiny mosaic tiles) which cover the church's interior—especially the dome—are now being restored to the brilliance they boasted 1500 years ago. This means the interior is filled with scaffolding, and will be so for years to come. This may spoil photos, but not the church's grandeur. You'll still enjoy your visit here.
Be sure to climb to the mezzanine level to see the splendid Byzantine mosaics.
I wrote a short article for Travel & Leisure magazine (US) about Ayasofya entitled "Ayasofya: the Perfect Space."

The Byzantine Empire

Constantinople was founded by Emperor Constantine the Great in 333 AD as the "New Rome,” but after the sack of the old Rome in 410 it became the Only Rome (so far as the emperor was concerned). The capital of the Roman Empire was now on the Bosphorus.
Though most of western Europe—formerly the heartland of the empire—had fallen to “barbarian” peoples such as the Visigoths and Vandals, the eastern territories, Emperor Justinian (527-565AD), a great general and statesman, preserved and expanded the empire’s power to include Greece and the Balkans, Anatolia, Syria, Palestine, Egypt, eastern North Africa, and even parts of Italy.
Today people remember Justinian for Constantinople’s grandest building, the great Church of the Holy Wisdom, or Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya). Finished in 537, it reigned as the greatest church in Christendom for almost a thousand years.
Able emperors reigned at times through the centuries after Justinian, but they were not great enough to keep the empire from decline.
In the 11th century the Seljuk Turks invaded Anatolia from the east and built a powerful empire in central and eastern Anatolia, once the Byzantine heartland.
The Crusader armies of Europe marched through in the 12th and 13th centuries, doing battle with the Seljuks as well as threatening—and in 1204 even attacking, conquering and sacking—Constantinople.
By the late 1200s, Byzantine power was much reduced in Anatolia, and Turkish warlords on its eastern borders around Nicaea (Iznik) and Sögüt had become serious threats. One of these warlord principalities, founded by a chieftain named Osman, grew into the Ottoman Empire which in 1453 conquered the imperial capital of Constantinople (Istanbul) and soon thereafter swept away the last vestiges of Byzantine rule.

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Money in Turkey: YTL, TL, $, €, £

The unit of Turkish currency is the Turkish Lira (Türk Lirasi, TL). On January 1, 2009, new banknotes were introduced. More...
From January 1, 2005 until December 31, 2008, Turkey's currency was called the New Turkish Lira (Yeni Türk Lirasi, YTL or TRY). As of January 1, 2009, the "New" (Yeni) has been dropped. The currency is again simply the Turkish Lira.
Here's the current exchange rate for the Turkish Lira. It's best to wait until you get to Turkey to exchange money for Turkish Liras. Exchange rates outside of Turkey are usually not as good as those inside Turkey.
The Turkish Lira is divided into 100 kurus (Kurush; that's koo-ROOSH). Here's how the new 2009 notes/bills look.
Although you can sometimes use foreign currencies (euros are best, US dollars are good, UK pounds sterling are accepted in some places) for larger transactions, and using non-Turkish currency is legal, you will want to use TL most of the time.
The easiest way to get cash liras is to stick your home bank card or credit card into a Turkish ATM (bancomat/cashpoint, cash machine). Travelers' checks are a much less efficient way.
You can exchange foreign-currency cash at a Currency Exchange Office (Döviz Bürosu).
The best currencies to carry for changing to TL are, again, euros, US dollars, and UK pounds.
Many people in Turkey will not accept large bills/notes for small payments, so it's good to juggle your TL cash-on-hand so that you always have some smaller amounts. Get in the habit of paying with bills/notes that are about equal to twice the amount you're paying (so pay for a TL23 meal with a TL 50 note, which gives you TL27 in change). If you give notes that are three times or more than the price, you're liable to get a dirty look and a request for smaller notes.
Old pre-2005 Turkish Lira notes and coins have been withdrawn from circulation. TL1.00 is equal to (old, pre-2005) TL1,000,000. In other words, a million old liras equals one new lira, but you should not accept old pre-2005 liras! More...
A century ago, one Ottoman Turkish lira was worth US$5 (and that $5 was worth about $100 in today's dollars).

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Taxis in Istanbul, Turkey

You will not have a great experience taking one of Istanbul's 20,000 yellow taxis.
The best you can hope for is an acceptable experience: the cab takes you where you want to go by the shortest route, and you pay the correct fare as shown on the meter.
Far too often, you are likely to have a bad experience:
1. The taxi refuses to take you where you want to go because the distance is not far enough to amount to a large enough fare. No matter that you have lots of luggage, or can't walk well, or are carrying a baby, or simply have a right to go where you want to go. Tough luck!
2. The taxi takes you where you want to go, but refuses to run the meter, and you are charged an exorbitant fare, which you can only reduce by arguing unpleasantly with someone who does not speak your language.
3. The taxi runs the meter and takes you where you want to go by a roundabout route which wastes your time and cost far more than it should.
4. The trip goes okay, but the driver expects a big tip because you're a foreigner (Turks don't tip taxi drivers).
5. The driver drives like a maniac, seeming happily to imperil not only his own life, but that of other drivers, and yours as well.
There is some good news: the first four rules above apply mostly (but dependably) to taxis accepting fares in and around Sultanahmet Square and other super-touristy areas. (The last one applies to taxis in most of the world.)
How to Avoid Unpleasantness
1. Have your hotel call a taxi from a local taxi stand so that you have someone to complain to if service is not acceptable.
2. From the airport, use a reserved taxi from Taxi Reservations, or a private transfer service in a comfortable Mercedes-Benz minivan that costs little more than a taxi. More...
3. Walk or take the tram away from Sultanahmet to another district (Sirkeci, Eminönü) and take a taxi from there. (Drivers cheat far less often in other districts of Istanbul.)
4. Use public transport! (Tram, Metro, Bus, Tünel, Füniküler, Sea Bus, ferryboat, suburban train.) In fact, Istanbul traffic is now so heavy that travel by public transport is often faster by tram and Metro than by taxi. (Here are the city's traffic webcams.) It is frequent, reasonably comfortable, and using an Akbil pass a one-hour, 15-km trip all the way across the city need cost no more than the first minute in a taxi.
More About Istanbul Taxis
Most are powered by clean-burning natural gas, and all have digital meters which the drivers are required by law to run.
If your driver doesn't start the taksimetre, or tries to haggle at the start of the trip instead of running it, just point to the meter emphatically and say Taksimetre! (TAHK-see-MEHT-treh) It'll probably be cheaper on the meter than if you let him just charge you what he wants at the end of your trip.
As the driver starts the meter it will flash the rate type:
—Gündüz (GURN-durz) means Day (06:00 am to 23:59 (11:59 pm). The drop rate is YTL2, and each kilometer YTL1.3
—Gece (GEH-jeh) means Night (24:00/12:00 am midnight to 05:59 am). The drop rate is YTL3, and each kilometer YTL1.95.
The Gündüz fare for the 15- to 25-minute ride between Sultanahmet and Taksim Square is about YTL10.
For the 35- to 75-minute ride from Atatürk Airport to Sultanahmet the Gündüz fare is about YTL25. From the airport to Taksim Square, about YTL30.
The Gündüz fare from Sariyer, on the Northern European shore of the Bosphorus near the Black Sea, to Galata Bridge is about YTL50.
Many taxis are small yellow cars that seat two in the rear seat comfortably, three in a pinch (or if you're all endomorphs). One person can sit in the right-front passenger seat, so the total a taxi can carry is four passengers (plus the driver), though most drivers prefer three passengers. I doubt that a driver will allow five passengers unless he has a larger car than the standard size (there are some larger ones).
For private transfer services in Mercedes-Benz minivans that cost little more than a taxi, click here. It's good for any trip for which you can plan in advance, and is much more pleasant, comfortable and secure.
Turks don't tip taxi drivers, they round up the fare. If it ends up being, say, YTL9.75, a Turk will just round it up to YTL10. In many cases if the fare is YTL10.25, the driver will require only YTL10, and not bother with the change.
As a foreigner, your driver may assume you'll give a tip, but you needn't unless the driver provides some special service, such as helping with lots of heavy luggage.

Turkish Language Guide

Learn some Turkish when you travel to Turkey and your trip will be much better. Luckily, simple Turkish is fairly easy to learn because Turkish is a logical, phonetic language.
All students in Turkish schools study English, and some even learn it. French, German and Arabic are also taught (and sometimes learned).
In tourist areas, local tourism personnel may study Greek, Finnish, Hebrew, Italian, Japanese, Korean, Spanish—whatever language a significant number of visitors may speak. But you'll get the most out of your trip if you know a bit of Turkish, too.
1. Turkish Language Learning AidsTransparent Language Store, Kwikpoint cards, iTRAVL NTL Talking 2-Way Language Communicator, Ectaco Turkish Language Teachers, and Rosetta Stone Language Software: get started!
2. The 100 Most Useful Turkish Words for TravelersFrom Hello to December, here they are. Remember: Anyone can learn 100 words™.
3. Turkish Cardinal and Ordinal NumbersFrom 1 to a trillion, to go with your 100 Most Useful Words.
4. Your Country's Name in TurkishYou gotta be able to tell Turks where you're from.
5. Turkish Pronunciation GuideMost letters are pronounced as in English, but a few are very odd indeed. Here's how to make the sounds.
6. Turkish Grammar: the BasicsThese basic rules won't make you form perfect sentences, but you'll get some idea of what's going on. It's pretty interesting (if you like grammar).
7. Turkish Vowel Harmony: Music to Your Ears?It's odd, but fairly easy once you get the hang of it.
If you plan to stay in Turkey awhile, consider teaching English to Turks in order to pay the bills.

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ATMs/Cash Machines in Turkey

Automated teller (cash) machines (cashpoints, bancomats) are everywhere in Turkish cities, airports, and even in most small towns.
Choose your language: Turkish or English for sure, and sometimes French and German. Just push a button to get screen prompts in your language.
North Americans! Note that Turkish ATM keypads usually do not have alphabetical keys (ABC for 2, DEF for 3, etc: see the keypad at lower right on this page). If your PIN/password is actually a word, and you're used to pressing the letter keys, you'll have to translate your password into numbers. Make a note now of the numbers from this USA keypad:

Your home-bank account will be debited for the amount you withdraw from a Turkish ATM (plus a service charge, of course).
Because bank card fraud is a big problem in Turkey, there is a chance that your home bank may limit or deny use of your ATM/cash/debit card in Turkey. Some travelers report that after one use in Turkey, their cards were ineffective. Talk to officials at your bank—in particular the Card Fraud Division—to make sure this does not happen to you. (Also, see the Cautionary Tale below.)
Even if they tell you all is well, you may still find your charges denied, so take your bank's contact information with you so you can contact them and yell at them for not helping you.
Some elaborate cash machines issue Turkish liras, euros or US dollars, as you wish, but I wonder about the service fees...
Sometimes there are glitches: the machine doesn't recognize your card, your bank or your account, or the data lines or computers are insufficient to handle the data traffic. Try later, or try some other bank's cash machine. More...
Note that some machines may not process your transaction on Sunday because your bank may be closed. You may want to get money before Sunday.
A tip: figure out how many liras you want to withdraw before you step up to the cash machine. Do a quick conversion in your head (exchange rates) because you probably "think" in your own currency, but the machine will ask you how many liras you want to withdraw.
Cautionary TaleA TTP user from Canada had a serious problem withdrawing money from ATMs in Turkey. Here's his story.

Turkish Visa Regulations-Page 2

Here are more countries (continued from Visa Page 1) issuing passports that do not need a visa to enter Turkey, or for which a visa can be obtained quickly and easily at the Turkish border or airport as you enter.
(S) means you may buy a sticker visa, valid for the number of months shown, upon entry to Turkey. Have the exact amount of euros or US dollars (or, for UK passport holders, GB pounds)—in cash!—to pay for your visa. No travelers checks, no credit cards, no other currencies, no exceptions!
No (S) means you may enter Turkey for the number of days shown with just a valid passport; you do not need a visa.
Passport
No Visa
Visa Needed

Days
Months
Euros
US$
Japan
90

Jordan (S)

1
€20
$30
Kazakhstan
30

Korea (South)
90

Kuwait (S)

3
€15
$20
Kyrgyzstan
30

Latvia
30

Lithuania (S)

1
€10
$15
Luxemburg
90

Macedonia
60

Malaysia
90

Monaco
90

Mongolia
30

Morocco
90

Netherlands (S)

3
€10
$15
New Zealand
90

Norway (S)

1
€20
$30
Poland (S)

1
€10
$15
Portugal (S)

3
€10
$15
Qatar (S)

3
€15
$20
Romania (S)

1
€10
$12
Russian Federation (S)

2
€15
$20
Saudi Arabia (S)

3
€15
$20
Serbia (S)

1
€10
$15
Singapore
90

Slovakia (S)

1
€10
$15
Slovenia (S)

3
€15
$20
South Africa (S)

1
€10
$15
Spain (S)

3
€10
$15
Sweden
90

Switzerland
90

Tajikistan
30

Tunisia
90

Turkmenistan
30

Ukraine (S)

2
€15
$20
UAE (S)

3
€15
$20
UK (S)*

3
£10 €15 $20
USA (S)

3
€15
$20
Uruguay
90

Uzbekistan
30

Venezuela
90

*“British Protected Persons (BPP)” passport holders, and "British National Overseas“ (BNO) passport holders (with the exception of Hong Kong), are NOT issued visas at Turkish borders. They must apply to a Turkish consulate for a visa in advance of their trip. (Hong Kong BNO passport holders may obtain sticker visas at Turkish borders.)

Turkish Visa Regulations-1

Most visitors may enter Turkey without a visa, or by easily buying a "sticker visa" at the airport, maritime port, or border-crossing point.
You hand the clerk your passport and the fee in CASH, the clerk sticks a stamp in your passport and you're on your way. The clerk doesn't look you up in a database or scan your passport or take your name or anything. The whole thing takes 10 seconds.
Basically, the sticker visa fee is just a tourist tax.
Be sure your passport is valid for at least six months from the date you enter Turkey or you may not be admitted.
You can obtain your visa in advance, before you arrive in Turkey, from any Turkish consulate, but it entails time, trouble, and extra expense (you'll pay a "visa processing fee.") It's much simpler to just buy your visa at the border.
If your passport is from one of the countries below, you probably don't have to obtain a visa in advance of your trip. (Who does?)
The information below was obtained from the Turkish Ministry of Foreign Affairs website (updated January 31, 2008), but I cannot guarantee the accuracy of the information! For definitive information you must contact a Turkish consulate. (Please do not contact me—I have no more information. I will just tell you to contact a Turkish consulate.)
(S) means you may buy a sticker visa, valid for the number of months shown, upon entry to Turkey. Have the exact amount of euros or US dollars (or, for UK passport holders, GB pounds)—in cash!—to pay for your visa. No travelers checks, no credit cards, no other currencies, no exceptions!
No (S) means you may enter Turkey for the number of days shown with just a valid passport; you do not need a visa.
Passport
No Visa
Visa Needed

Days
Months
Euros
US$
Albania (S)

2
€10
$15
Armenia (S)

1
€10
$15
Australia (S)

3
€15
$20
Austria (S)

3
€15
$20
Azerbaijan
30

Belarus (S)

2
€15
$20
Belgium (S)

3
€10
$15
Bosnia-Herzegovina
60

Brazil
90

Bulgaria
90

Canada (S)

3
€45
$60
Chile
90

Cyprus (TRNC)
?

Cyprus (Greek) (S)

1
€10
$15
Croatia
60

Czech Republic
90

Denmark
90

Finland
90

France
90

Georgia
90

Germany
90

Greece
90

Hong Kong (BNO*) (S)

3
€15
$20
Hungary (S)

1
€20
$30
Iceland
90

Iran
90

Ireland (S)

3
€10
$15
Israel
90

Italy
90

Japan
90

Click here for more countries...
*“British Protected Persons (BPP)” passport holders, and "British National Overseas“ (BNO) passport holders (with the exception of Hong Kong), are NOT issued visas at Turkish borders. They must apply to a Turkish consulate for a visa in advance of their trip. (Hong Kong BNO passport holders may obtain sticker visas at Turkish borders.)

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Sultanahmet, Istanbul, Turkey

The Sultanahmet district is the heart of historic Old Istanbul, what 19th-century travelers used to call "Stamboul."
This is where you'll find Topkapi Palace, Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia), the Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet Camii), the Byzantine Hippodrome, Yerebatan Saray (Sunken Palace Cistern), the Istanbul Archeological Museums, Great Palace Mosaic Museum, and several lesser sights (see map below).
It's your best base for sightseeing in Istanbul. For a rundown on things to see, go to Istanbul Sights.
Luckily for visitors, the district of Sultanahmet (sool-tahn-ah-MEHT, named for Sultan Ahmet I, builder of the Blue Mosque) also has a number of serviceable restaurants and dozens of good hotels in all price ranges.
Many of the hotels are literally a few minutes' stroll from the major sights. If you're looking for a hotel, use these tools:
Sultanahmet Hotels HomepageThe place to start your Sultanahmet hotel search.

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Atatürk Airport, Istanbul, Turkey

Istanbul's Atatürk International Airport (IST) at Yesilyurt, 23 km (14 miles) west of Sultanahmet Square, is the busiest of Turkey's major airports.
It's the place most visitors land first. (Here's visa info.)
The modern International Terminal Dis Hatlar Terminali) is spacious and efficient, with all the expected services including ATMs (cash machines) from which you can obtain New Turkish Liras, currency exchange offices, restaurants, cafes and shops, Emanet (Baggage Check, Left Luggage) and an Airport Hotel.
Note that prices for food and drink at Turkish airports tend to be very high. My quick informal survey showed them to be 40% higher than at expensive Frankfurt Airport, and twice as high as at pricey Paris-Charles de Gaulle Airport.
An underground passage (15-minute walk) connects the International Terminal with the older Domestic Terminal (Iç Hatlar Terminali) and also the Istanbul Metro, called the Hafif Metro ("Light rail system") on many airport terminal signs.
There are several ways to travel between Atatürk Airport and the city center. Here they are.
A half-dozen hotels are within a few km of the airport, and one is right within the International terminal itself. More...
Istanbul's other airport is Sabiha Gökçen International Airport (SAW) on the Asian side of the Bosphorus, about 55 km (34 miles) east of Atatürk International Airport (IST). Here's how to travel from Atatürk Airport to Sabiha Gökçen Airport.

Private Airport Transfers-Istanbul

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AeroportTransfer.com operates an excellent airport transfer service to and from Istanbul's Atatürk Airport and Sabiha Gökçen Airport that's far more comfortable and reliable than a taxi, but not much more expensive.
Your AeroportTransfer.com driver will be waiting for you, holding a sign with your name on it, when you emerge from the airport's secure Customs area. He'll help you with your luggage and lead you to the vehicle, most commonly a comfortable Mercedes-Benz minivan.
Your private minivan—it's just for you, like a taxi; this is not a public shuttle—will take you directly to your hotel, where the driver will help you with your luggage all the way to the hotel reception desk.
Whether driving from the airport to your hotel, or from your hotel to the airport, your driver will offer you snacks and fruit juice as refreshments. Let me tell you, this is very welcome when going to the airport early in the morning, before breakfast is being served in the hotel, and given the exorbitant prices for food and drink at Turkish airports!
The cost of this private service, for up to four passengers, is just 20 euros for the trip between Atatürk Airport and Sultanahmet or Taksim Square; and just 45 euros between Sabiha Gökçen Airport and Sultanahmet or Taksim Square. (Other destinations, and trips with more than four passengers, may have different prices.)
Let me make this clear: that price is for the entire vehicle, not per person, and as such it is very good value for money.
A regular yellow taxi, by the way, can take two passengers comfortably, three in a bit of a squeeze, four maximum, but it may not be able to hold all the luggage even for three passengers, let alone four, if your bags are large or many. A taxi usually costs about YTL25 to YTL30 between Atatürk Airport and Sultanahmet or Taksim Square, so you can see that the Backpackers' service is very reasonably priced.
Backpackers Travel, by the way, also operates three good modrately-priced hotels in Istanbul: Sultan's Inn, Deniz Konak, and Naz Wooden House, worth considering for your stay in Istanbul.

Hotels in Istanbul TurkeyBook your hotel room with incredible rates.http://www.hotelle.com/
Istanbul Airport Transfer
Click for Reservation : http://www.aeroporttransfer.com/reservation.asp
or email us : reservation@aeroporttransfer.com
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