Aeroport Transfer: 08/01/2009

2 Ağustos 2009 Pazar

Termessos, Antalya, Turkey

Termessos has the most dramatic situation of any ancient city in Turkey. Just look at its theater:
High in a mountain defile 38 km (24 miles) north of the Mediterranean coast city of Antalya (map), the walled city of Termessos defied even Alexander the Great in 333 BC.
Now protected within Güllük Dagi National Park, Termessos requires at least half a day (4 or 5 hours, preferably in the morning—start early), and bring a water bottle and snacks or a picnic lunch.
The park opens at 08:30 am in summer. Last entry to the park is at 17:30 (5:30 pm), but you don't have to leave the park until 19:30 (7:30 pm). In winter, the park may open at 08:00 am, and close early if there is bad weather (heavy rain, fog, snow), but otherwise the last entry is often 16:30 (4:30 pm).
In early May 2007, I started driving from Kaleiçi, Antalya at 08:35 am, reached the entrance to the national park at 09:15 am and payed the YTL9.50 admission fee.
Just beyond the park entrance is a restaurant, cafe and snack shop, picnic area, toilets, a small "exhibition room" (museum) of photos of Termessos's ruins, and a forlorn stuffed deer.
Guides wait here on most days (particularly weekends) for those who might want to employ them for a tour of the ruins—not a bad idea if you have a lively interest in archeology, as Termessos is an unrestored site: signs mark the major buildings, and the principal paths are kept mostly clear of brush, but you still get a good Indiana Jones feeling as you poke around in the scrub looking at the fields of tumbled limestone blocks.
From the park entrance, I drove the 9 km (5.6 miles) up a winding, one-lane switchback road to the archeological site parking lot, arriving at 09:30 am, an hour after leaving Antalya.
At the site parking lot are a few picnic tables, a sign saying "No Picnicking" in Turkish, toilets, a tiny ranger post, a temple and propylaeum dedicated to Emperor Hadrian and the goddess Artemis, and an ancient cistern.
From the parking lot, I walked fairly slowly along the rough path uphill toward the city heights.
After 10 minutes I was at the Lower City Walls. A few more minutes brought me to the City Gate, and another 10 minutes to the Gymnasium and Baths.
By 10:00 am, after a half-hour hike from the parking lot, I was at the Upper City Walls and Drainage System, on level ground at the top of the valley.
A few minutes walking on level (but rough) ground took me to the spectacular Theater with its vast views and precipitous site, teetering on the rim of a steep defile.
Major sights at the top include the Upper Agora, Odeon-Bouleuterion, Hereon (monumental tomb), Cistern with Five Partitions, Colonnaded Street, and the Corinth Temple.
After a look at the Corinth Temple, I started down the rocky path to the parking lot and arrived just over 16 minutes later. My visit to the site, including walking up the hill, lasted two hours. One hour would be too little, three might also be fine, four would be too much, unless you plan to bushwhack to the Southern Necropolis and/or the fire watchtower at the very top of the valley. The paths through the scrub to these places were not cleared at the time of my visit.
Seeing Termessos requires climbing over rough rock (some huge stones) and perhaps walking a bit in scrubby, scratchy brush. It is not an easy place to walk. Spraining an ankle or two is easy to accomplish, so be careful.
To reach Termessos from Antalya, leave the city following signs for the Otogar (bus terminal), then signs for Burdur, Korkuteli, Denizli and Mugla. The park entrance is off the Burdur-Korkuteli highway.
Visit on a day excursion from Antalya, or stop for a half day going to or from Antalya along the Burdur or Korkuteli highways on your way to or from Pamukkale and Denizli.
You should consider combining your visit to Termessos with one to the Karain Cave, 19 km (12 miles) east of the Termessos archeological site parking lot. The two sites make a good day excursion, and you can be back in Antalya in time for a late lunch and a swim.

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Side, Turkey

Side (SEE-deh) was once idyllic, a traditional Turkish Mediterranean village amid marble Roman ruins on 2 km (1.2 miles) of unspoiled beach just an hour (65 km, 40 miles) east of Antalya or west of Alanya (map).
Tourism arrived with a vengeance in the 1980s, however, and although Side is still nice, it is now crowded in warm weather.
Both Turks and foreigners come for the perfect white sand beaches, the seaside restaurants and bars, the variety of lodgings (from cheap little pensions to luxury hotels), and the impressive Hellenistic and Roman ruins.
The best times to enjoy Side are late April, May, early June and October. If you must come in high summer, avoid weekends, when half of Ankara roars down to Side for a swim.
Car, bus and minibus are the ways to get here. Buses and minibuses come from Antalya and Alanya. The nearest airport is Antalya's, 55 km (34 miles) west of Side.
Maps of Side, Belek, Manavgat & Mediterranean Turkey
Here's a source of inexpensive holidays in Side.

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Aspendos Theater, Turkey

Aspendos boasts the best-preserved Roman theater in Turkey, and one of the best in the world.
Located on the Pamphylian plain 47 km east of Antalya and 37 km west of Side (map), Aspendos is 4 km north of the Mediterranean shore on the banks of the Köprü Çayi stream.
Once called Belkis, Aspendos was founded by the Hittites, but it was Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius (161-180 AD) who ordered its great theater to be built.
Still used for performances today, the theater really allows you to imagine what it was like to attend a dramatic performance in Roman times.
The ruined city includes a substantial aqueduct and less impressive remains of an agora, basilica and stadium, and you can wander through the farmers' fields to find them, though it's the theater that you really want to see.
There are no hotels or restaurants right by the theater, just snacks.
Aspendos is crowded with tour groups in the middle of the day in high summer, so try to avoid the crowds by coming early or late in the day, or off-season.
If you do come in high summer, you can enjoy the Aspendos Opera & Ballet Festival from mid-June to mid-August, with performances in the marvelous theater. What a thrill to see a performance here!
Aspendos is also a starting-point for the St Paul Trail leading north up onto the Anatolian plateau by way of dramatic Köprülü Kanyon National Park.

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Perge, Turkey

Perge is the closest significant Roman ruin to Antalya, and well worth a visit.
You can make a day of ruin-hopping by combining it with visits to Aspendos, Termessos and perhaps even Side (map).
The Great Theater and the stadium of Perge (PEHR-geh) are its most impressive and intact buildings, but the remnants of its massive Hellenistic-Roman gate-towers are most photographed because they're so unusual.
Through the gates are remnants of a fine colonnaded street—not as fine as the Arcadian Way at Ephesus, but still quite impressive. The southern baths and the agora are worth exploring. The acropolis, on a nearby hilltop, has few extant buildings but a fine overall panorama of the ruins.
With Antalya or Side as your base, car or guided tour are the easiest ways to visit Perge. By public transport, take a minibus from Antalya's Dogu Garaj (doh-OO garazh, Eastern Garage) to the town of Aksu on the Antalya-Side highway, then hitch, hike or taxi 2 km (1.2 miles, a 20-minute walk) north to Perge.
Speaking of hiking, Perge is a starting-point for the St Paul Trail leading north up to the Anatolian plateau. (The other starting-point is Aspendos.)

Antalya Airport (AYT), Turkey

Antalya International Airport is big and modern, built to accommodate the millions of passengers who come to Turkey's Mediterranean beaches in high summer.
The airport has two international terminals and one domestic terminal. Airline companies use Terminal I or Terminal II, and they'll tell you which they use so you can find your way back to it when it's time to fly home.
The international terminals have currency exchange offices (döviz bürosu), but the rates of exchange are usually quite terrible.
Your Antalya hotel's rate of exchange may be a bit better, but the best rates are in the banks and currency exchange offices at the city center just north of Kalekapisi at the beginning of Kâzim Özalp (Sarampol) Caddesi.
Or, just use your bank card and an ATM at the airport or in the city to get New Turkish Liras.
The airport is 10 km (6 miles) east of the city center (maps). If you're coming with an organized group, you'll probably be taken to your hotel by bus. Otherwise, if no one is coming to meet you, you'll take a Havas shuttle bus into the city, or a taxi to the city or perhaps elsewhere. More...

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City Tours in Antalya, Turkey

Here are some sample Antalya airport transfers, city tours and excursions available from TTP's recommended tour companies and travel agencies.
(The actual programs of each tour company will vary, but these samples give you an idea of what you may see.)
Antalya Airport TransferAntalya City TourDemre (Myra) & KekovaMediterranean Villages
Pamukkale & AphrodisiasPerge, Aspendos & SideTermessos
Antalya Airport to City Hotel TransferThere's no public transport between Antalya Airport and Antalya city center (10 km/6 miles). If you're not part of a tour group with its own bus, you may want to arrange for a car to meet you at the airport and drive you to your hotel. Otherwise, you'll end up taking a taxi. Details & Reservations....
Antalya City Tour (4 hours)On your first or second day in Antalya, why not see the top sights on a comfortable, escorted, air-conditioned tour? Cruise the city's palm-lined boulevards stopping at Hadrian's Gate, the Clock Tower at Kalekapisi, Republic Square with its dramatic statue and excellent views of the Mediterranean coast and the distant Olimpos Mountains. Descending from the square, you explore the narrow, winding streets of historic Old Antalya (Kaleiçi), filled with graceful Ottoman-era houses and gardens. Last stop is the fine Antalya Museum, which is somewhat out of the city center and easiest to visit on a tour. Details & Reservations....
Perge, Aspendos & Side Excursion (9 hours)Head eastward along the coast to Perge, with its fine theater, stadium, mammoth towered gate and colonnaded marble street, then continue to Aspendos which has the best-preserved classical theater on the Mediterranean.
Enjoy a picnic lunch by the famous waterfalls in Manavgat, then explore Side and its beaches as you like. This tour is an efficient, comfortable way to visit and enjoy the major sights east of Antalya. Details & Reservations....
Termessos Excursion (5 hours)Isolated—on purpose—high in the mountains north of Antalya, Termessos is among the most striking and dramatic ancient cities in the region. Because of its location it's a bit difficult to get to, which is why a private tour makes sense. This one includes a stop at the Düden Waterfalls as well. Details & Reservations....
Demre, Myra & Kekova Tour (12-1/2 hours)Pack your bathing-suit and journey south and west along the Mediterranean shore to Demre (Myra), where you embark for a cruise to Kekova Island, site of the ancient city of Simena. Some of its Byzantine-era ruins are on the island, others are submerged—Atlantis-like—beneath the clear Mediterranean waters. Swim and snorkel in the sky-blue water, gazing down at the "sunken city" now populated by crabs and fish.
Back on land, you'll see Myra's ancient rock-hewn cliff tombs, Roman theater, and fertile river delta covered with orchards and greenhouses. Myra is famous as the seat of a 4th-century Byzantine bishop named Nicholas who, sainted for his charitable works, was changed by myth and legend into Santa Claus/Father Christmas. You'll visit the church dedicated to him and see where he was buried. Details & Reservations....
Jeep Safari to Mediterranean Villages (6 hours)Get out of the city and into the countryside to see how the local people live. In a Mediterranean village set amidst the verdant hills you'll try gözleme (savory Turkish flatbread "crêpes") and ayran (a refreshing drink of fresh yoghurt mixed with cool springwater) as you talk with the villagers. Lots of photo ops on this trip! Details & Reservations....
Pamukkale & Aphrodisias Overnight Excursion (2 days)Pack your bathing suit in your overnight bag and drive up through the mountains and onto the Anatolian plateau to Pamukkale, the "Cotton Castle." Bathe in its naturally warm, calcium-laden mineral waters and admire the billows of gleaming white stone cascading down the steep mountainside. There's time to explore the extensive ruins of the Roman spa city of Hierapolis, right there on the Pamukkale pleateau, if you like.
You'll also visit the well-preserved ruins of Aphrodisias, the City of the Goddess of Love, with a near-perfect Great Theater and Odeon of white marble, and a stadium almost ready for the chariots to run again, before returning to Antalya. Details & Reservations....

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Asclepion of Pergamum, Bergama

The Asclepion (Asklepieion) of Pergamum was perhaps the world's most famous ancient medical center, and is the second-most important site in Bergama.
The Asclepion is 1.6 km (one mile) north of the main street, reached by a road on the left (north) 6 km (3.73 miles) east of the Otogar (bus terminal) and one km (6/10 mile) west of the Bergama Museum and city center.
The road to the Asclepion passes through a large Turkish army base. Do not linger on the road, or take photos, and be off the road by dusk.
Founded by a man named Archias, the Asclepion of Pergamum became famous under Galen (131-210 AD), a local physician who pursued his medical studies in Greece and Alexandria (Egypt) before settling here as doctor to Pergamum's gladiators.
From the parking lot and entrance (YTL10), where there are shops and snack-and-drink stands, you walk along a monumental marble street bordered by columns. This was once an active market street, with shops lining both sides of the street. The acropolis of Pergamum is clearly visible on its hilltop to the east.
Coming into the main precinct of the Asclepion, notice the large marble column fragment bearing the Asclepion's symbol: two snakes facing each other across a wheel. As snakes shed their skins are are "reborn," so patients at the Asclepion were to shed their illnesses and regain health.
You first notice the large theater of the Asclepion, in front of which are several stone-framed sacred pools, filled with water (and frogs) in spring, though perhaps dry in summer and autumn.

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Sardis (Sart), Turkey

Sardis was the capital of the ancient Kingdom of Lydia, ruled by King Croesus (560-546 BC). Later, it was an important Roman city.
Located 90 km (56 miles) east of Izmir, (map) Sardis (Sart in Turkish) is a large archeological site with lots to see. Guided tours are available from Izmir and Ephesus/Kusadasi.
The great Temple of Artemis was begun in 334 BC, reconfigured over the centuries in various acrhitectural styles, but never finished.
The 2nd-century AD Marble Court of the Hall of the Imperial Cult complex has been extensively restored, as has been the huge, rich Roman synagogue.
Sardis is a large site divided by the Izmir-Afyon highway, with the Marble Court and synagogue on the north side, and the Temple of Artemis about 1 km (6/10 mile) to the south, along with remnants of a Byzantine church, a late Roman villa.
The River Pactolus, now called the Gediz Nehri, passes along the western edge of the site. The ancient Lydians gathered gold dust from its waters by placing sheepskins in the water which collected the dust. According to legend, the gold came from the Phrygian King Midas who, cursed with the golden touch, washed in the Pactolus to rid himself of it. You can visit the site of the Lydians' gold refinery.
You can see Sardis on a day-trip from Izmir (90 km/56 miles, 1.5 hours), either by private car or by bus or, less conveniently, by train.
Catch any bus from Izmir headed for Salihli, the town just beyond Sardis, and ask to be let out at Sartmustafa. The train from Izmir's Basmane station is slower and less frequent, and arrives at the Sartmahmut station one km (6/10 mile) north of the highway.
The nearest hotels are in Salihli.

Adnan Menderes Airport, Izmir

Izmir's main airport (airport code: ADB) is 18 km (11 miles) south of the city on the way to Selçuk, Ephesus and Pamukkale.
The International terminal is nice, but the roadways around the airport, complete with confusing signage, are a tangle and a mess. Go slowly and take your time if you're driving in or out.
TTP users have complained of high prices for food and drink at Turkish airports, and Izmir's Adnan Menderes Airport is no exception. You may find, as I did, that prices for a coffee, a beer or a sandwich are 40% higher than in expensive Frankfurt, and twice as expensive as at Paris's pricey Charles de Gaulle Airport. You might want to bring your own supplies.
Sun Express Airlines and IzAir have chosen ADB as their hub and are expanding their route systems, allowing travelers to fly between Izmir and other Turkish cities without having to change planes at Istanbul or Ankara. More...
Traveling between Menderes Airport and Selçuk, Ephesus and Kusadasi is not as easy. Selçuk is 60km (37 miles) south of ADB, reachable by rental car (less than an hour's drive). Pamukkale is 252 km (157 miles) from ADB, a drive of about 4 hours (4-1/2 to 5 hours by bus). (More distances...) Some trains go there—slowly. Buses are faster.
Lots and lots of buses pass by on the highways on both east and west sides of the airport, but they do not enter the airport grounds, so you have to walk at least a few kilometers to get to a bus stop. This arrangement allows the region's taxi drivers to make lots of money ferrying passengers to and from the airport. (Most probably, they will refuse to shuttle you out to the highway so you can catch a bus.)
Another way to go to or from the airport is to have your hotel arrange a private transfer. The Kalehan Hotel in Selçuk, for example, will arrange one for less than the normal taxi fare.

City Tours in Izmir, Turkey

Here are some sample Izmir city tours, excursions and airport transfers from TTP's recommended tour companies and travel agencies.
(The actual programs of each tour company will vary, but these samples give you an idea of what you may see.)
Airport-to-Hotel Transfer (30 minutes)An English-speaking guide/driver meets you in the Arrivals hall of Izmir's Adnan Menderes Airport, assists with your luggage, escorts you by private car over the hills to your hotel, and helps with your luggage again. You pay the driver with a pre-paid voucher. No worries about struggling with a foreign language, about taxi drivers who take you the long way round to run up the meter, or about having the right amount of Turkish liras to cover the fare and tip. Details & reservations...
Half Day Izmir Tour (3 hours) Start with a drive to the top of Mount Pagus which rises above the city center. Enjoy the panoramic views of the city and Bay of Izmir from the walls of Kadifekale, an ancient fortress built by Alexander the Great. Tour Izmir's museums of Archeology and Ethnography, then visit the city's symbol, its Ottoman Clock Tower. Finally, penetrate its elaborate bazaar (one of my favorites in all of Turkey) which stretches for blocks. You can see the best of Izmir in only 3 hours! Details & reservations...
Izmir, Jewish Sites and Sardis (7-1/2 hours) This full-day private tour shows you all the best sites in Izmir, and also Sardis, the capital of the ancient kingdom of Lydia, with its grand Roman Synagogue. At Sardis you can also visit the Temple of Artemis (Cybele, Diana), and other ancient monuments. Details & reservations...Ephesus and St. Mary's House (9 hours) To see all of Ephesus, take this full-day tour: Fountain of Trajan, Temples of Hadrian and Domitian, the mosaic-filled Private House, the Library of Celsus, Baths of Vedius, Scholastic Baths, Bouleuterion (council chamber) and the enormous 24,000-seat Great Theatre. After lunch (included), visit the Virgin Mary's House set in a neraby hilltop park, and the Ephesus Museum in Selçuk, where many of the choicest relics of Ephesus are displayed. Details & reservations...Pergamum and Asklepion (8 hours) See Pergamum on this full-day tour which includes its acropolis, its steep, dramatic theater, monumental Altar of Zeus and the Asclepion, the ancient medical center where Galen laid the foundations of European medicine. Details & reservations...Full Day Pamukkale and Hierapolis (9 hours) Drive south and east through fertile fruit- and tobacco-growing country up the Meander River valley to Pamukkale (Hierapolis), where you'll enjoy a swim in its naturally warm mineral waters. Explore the extensive ruins of the Roman health spa of Hierapolis, which show that 2000 years ago people were enjoying just what you're enjoying! Details & reservations...

Aphrodisias, Aegean Turkey

Aphrodisias is the City of Aphrodite, Goddess of Love, and one of the Aegean region's most interesting archeological sites.
Guided tours from Izmir, Ephesus/Kusadasi and Antalya often stop here on their way to Pamukkale.
Nestled in the broad, fertile Meander River valley, this city has been here for millennia. At its heart is an acropolis on a hill formed of the detritus of settlements dating back at least to the Early Bronze Age (as old as 2800 BC).
By the 8th century BC, Aphrodisias was famous as the City of Aphrodite, and pilgrims came to pay homage to the Goddess of Love at her temple. The goddess was called Venus by the Romans, and it's easy to imagine ancient fertility rites such as the belly dance being performed in her temple here.
With the coming of Christianity her temple, site of who knows what other rites in worship of love, was converted into a chaste church.
Without the flow of pilgrim money the city declined. In 1402 the fledgling Ottoman Empire and Aphrodisias were attacked by Tamerlane. The empire recovered. This city did not.
Today the ruins, set amid fertile fields of cotton and groves of spindly cypresses, include an elaborate Tetrapylon, or monumental gate (in the photo to the right), the foundations of the Temple of Aphrodite, the Christian bishop's palace, a beautiful marble odeon (small theater) in excellent condition, and a stadium still capable of seating nearly its original capacity of 30,000 spectators.
The white marble theater built into the side of the acropolis is also in excellent condition. Next to it is a colonnaded palaestra, or playing field, and the great Portico of Tiberius.
Aphrodisias had a famous sculpture academy in Roman times, probably because of the high-grade marble quarried only a few kilometers away at Babadag. The museum at the site thus has an especially good collection of Roman sculpture. Take a look at the Faces of Aphrodisias.
Aphrodisias is best seen on the way to or from Pamukkale. For example, you might drive from Selçuk (Ephesus) or Kusadasi eastward up the Meander valley for about two hours, turn south at Nazilli, and proceed via Karacasu to Geyre, the village next to the site. More...
After touring the museum and exploring the ruins at Aphrodisias, continue eastward to Pamukkale, where you can spend the night or, if you want to do it all in one long day, have a swim, then return westward to your base in Selçuk or Kusadasi. (I recommend staying the night at Pamukkale.)
By the way: yes, the Meander River (Menderes Nehri in Turkish) is where we get the English word meander, meaning "to follow a winding course." If you visit Priene, south of Kusadasi on the way to Miletus, you'll see why: the river wanders all over the broad, flat flood plain on its way to the Aegean Sea.
If you don't have your own car, or take a tour, Aphrodisias can be a bit tricky to get to by public bus. Here's how to do it.

Pamukkale (Hierapolis), Turkey

Pamukkale, 19 km (12 miles) north of Denizli (maps), is Turkey's foremost mineral-bath spa because of its natural beauty: hot calcium-laden waters spring from the earth and cascade over a cliff. As they cool they form dramatic travertines of hard, brilliantly white calcium that form pools.
Pamukkale (pah-MOOK-kah-leh, "Cotton Fortress") has been a spa since the Romans built the spa city of Hierapolis around a sacred warm-water spring. The Sacred Pool is still there, littered with marble columns from the Roman Temple of Apollo. You can swim in it for a fee.
Pamukkale used to be a favorite stop on every backpacker's trip to Turkey. Adventurous travelers would stay in Pamukkale Town's small pensions and hotels, bask in the warm mineral water of the travertime pools, linger over long dinners with drinks in the evening, exchange tales of the road, and generally have a wonderful time in this laid-back atmosphere.
In the 1990s the local authorities undertook a development campaign meant to improve the spa and increase tourism. Misconceived in some ways, the development, along with changes in Turkey's entire tourism picture, resulted in fewer visitors.
Word went out: Pamukkale is ruined! It's not the beautiful place it once was.
Should you visit Pamukkale now?
Yes, certainly. It's true that it is not what it once was, but time rolls on, things change, and many of the reasons to visit Pamukkale are still valid, one of which is that it makes great sense as a stop on the route between Izmir, Selcuk, Ephesus, Kusadasi or Marmaris and Antalya or Konya. More...
Otherwise, you can come to Pamukkale, near Denizli, on a day-trip or guided tour from most of these places (Konya excepted).
Coming from, or going to the Aegean coast, you can combine a visit to Pamukkale with a visit to Aphrodisias, the ancient City of Aphrodite, goddess of love.
Three locations are of importance to visitors at Pamukkale:
Pamukkale TownAt the foot of the travertines, the little town of Pamukkale has numerous small hotels, pensions, restaurants, and such services as shops and bus ticket offices. Many pensions have their own small warm mineral water pools.
KarahayitSeveral kilometers to the north of the plateau, the village of Karahayit is surrounded by big resort hotels busy with bus tour groups. More...
The PlateauThe travertines form a plateau atop which is the Sacred Pool, the ruins of Hierapolis, and the Archeological Museum. These are what you want to see. There are three entrances to the plateau. You'll pay a fee (YTL5 per person) to enter at any one. More...
As you enter Pamukkale Town in a car, local men on motor scooters will race after you, catch you, and gesture to you to stop your car. When you do, thinking there is perhaps something wrong with your vehicle, or a dangerous situation ahead, you will discover that they only want to sell you something.
They will ask if you need a hotel, restaurant, souvenir, carpet, etc. If you need any of these services, they will lead you to them and probably take a commission for their efforts. This may or may not affect the price you pay, I don't know—but I suspect it doesn't lower it. Although they are only trying to make a living, and in some cases to help visitors find things, I find them a nuisance as they will not let you go until they have made their pitch.
You can reach Pamukkale by car, bus, train or airplane. More

Priene-Miletus-Didyma Tour, Turkey

From Selçuk and Ephesus, you can tour the three fascinating archeological sites of Priene, Miletus and Didyma in a long morning or afternoon.
You'll need your own transport, either a rental car or a taxi hired for a half-day. You can easily rent a car from Anker Travel.
If a taxi, ask at your hotel for a driver recommendation, or go to the Selçuk otogar (bus station) and haggle with a driver or two for a four- or five-hour rate taking you to Priene, Miletus and Didyma, with about an hour waiting time at each site, more time if you like taking your time and looking at every feature and building of a site.
In summer, minibus tours of these three sites run from the Selçuk otogar, departing at 09:00 am, spending an hour at Priene, an hour and a half at Miletus, 2-1/2 hours at Didyma (you only need an hour to see the temple, but you can also have lunch), then 1-1/2 hours at Altinkum Beach, just south of Didyma, for a swim, before returning to Selçuk by 18:00 (6 pm).
If you do it on your own, allow at least four hours (five is better) for this tour, not counting meals. There are simple restaurants available near all three archeological sites, but you might want to pack your own snacks and picnic lunch instead.
Also bring water in the summer months to avoid dehydration. You can buy drinks along the way, but you should also have your own water bottle.
Drive south 35 km (22 miles) from Selçuk or southeast 20 km (12.5 miles) from Kusadasi to Söke, then follow signs for Güllübahçe (10 km, 6 miles) and Priene, one km farther along. If you need services (drinks, restaurant, shops, simple lodgings), you can find them in Güllübahçe.
After your visit to Priene, drive 22 km (14 miles) to Miletus (Milet, Balat), west along the northern edge of the Meander River (Menderes Nehri) flood plain, then south to cross the broad, level flood plain, planted mostly in cotton. At this point, near where it empties into the Aegean Sea, the once-mighty river is a mere trickle of its former mighty self, constrained in a few narrow channels, its precious liquid already spread over the vast expanse of fertile land along the Meander's course.
The huge theater at Miletus rises to greet you as you reach the southern edge of the flood plain. Turn left to reach the theater and, in front of it, a copse of trees with a parking lot, restaurant, drinks and snack shop, and toilets. The Miletus Museum is about one km south along the side road to Akköy.
From Miletus, go 4.5 km (3 miles) south to Akköy, on either the old road (passing the Miletus Museum) or the newer highway to the west.
South of Akköy, follow signs for Yenihisar (Didim/Didyma), driving 14 km (9 miles) to its gigantic oracular Temple of Apollo. There are restaurants, drinks and snack stands, and lodgings right around the temple.
Altinkum Beach, 4 km (2.5 miles) south of Didyma, is very busy in summer, with a significant population of British and European seasonal residents.
Retrace your route from Didyma to return to Selçuk (86 km, 54 miles) or Kusadasi (71 km, 44 miles).
If you're heading onward to Bodrum, you can drive eastward from Yenihisar or Akköy to join the highway to Milas, south of which you turn right and climb into the mountains on your way to Bodrum.

Ephesus Region, Turkey

Ephesus is the best-preserved Roman city in the Mediterranean region, and Turkey's top sight after Istanbul, but the Ephesus archeological site is not the only reason to visit this region.
You can easily spend two, three or four nights in this area, staying overnight in the town of Selçuk or the Aegean resort of Kusadasi, visiting other ancient cities such as Priene, Miletus, Didyma, Aphrodisias and Euromos, or the pretty mountain village of Sirince, shopping in the large weekly market at Tire (TEE-reh), getting away to the hot mineral water spa of Pamukkale, going windsurfing or just relaxing in charming Alaçati, taking a day-trip or overnight excursion to Bodrum, and even getting in some beach time at Pamucak or Altinkum (maps).
Selçuk, the town 3 km (2 miles) east of the Ephesus archeological site, lies at the foot of Ayasoluk Hill, topped by a Byzantine-Ottoman fortress. On the slope are the St John Basilica and Isa Bey Mosque, both worth a visit.
Just off Selçuk's main boulevard is the good Ephesus Museum, and on the hill behind the museum are plenty of good small pensions, inns and small hotels. Plenty of restaurants and transport services here too.
You can walk from Selçuk to the Ephesus archeological site along a tree-shaded lane in about 25 or 30 minutes, but you may want to stop along the way and see the scant ruins of the famous Temple of Artemis (Artemision), one of the Seven Wonders of the World.
Beyond the archeological site, 4 km (2.5 miles) to the west is Pamucak Beach and, 17 km (11 miles) to the southwest, the port town and resort of Kusadasi.
Here's transport information, for the Ephesus region, and here are distances and travel times to/from other Turkish towns and cities. Here's how to drive between Izmir's Adnan Menderes Airport and Selçuk, Sirince, Ephesus and Kusadasi.
You can drive from Istanbul to Ephesus, seeing the Dardanelles (Hellespont), Gallipoli battlefields, ancient Troy and Pergamum (Pergamon, Bergama) and other sights along the way. Argeus Tourism & Travel can set you up with a 6-day self-drive tour covering Troy, the Gallipoli battlefields, Pergamum and Ephesus. More...
If you want to visit a place where you can really get a feel for what life was like 2000 years ago during the glory-days of Greece and Rome, Ephesus is the place. In terms of ruins, it's better than Rome itself.
St Paul's New Testament Letter to the Ephesians was written to the citizens of Ephesus. The Virgin Mary is believed to have spent her last days on earth here, and you can visit the rebuilt house (Meryemana) said to have been hers. St John is believed to have written his Gospel here, and to have been buried in the St John Basilica.

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Tours of Ephesus & Kusadasi, Turkey

Here are some sample Ephesus and Kusadasi city tours and excursions arranged through TTP's recommended tour operators and travel agencies.
(The actual programs of each tour company will vary, but these samples give you an idea of what you may see.)
Half-day Ephesus Tour (4 hours)You can see the best of the great Roman city of Ephesus, capital of Asia Minor, on a half-day tour. Details & reservations...
Full-day Ephesus Tour (full day)To see all of Ephesus, take this full-day tour: Fountain of Trajan, Temples of Hadrian and Domitian, the mosaic-filled Private House, the Library of Celsus, Baths of Vedius, Scholastic Baths, Bouleuterion (council chamber) and the enormous 24,000-seat Great Theatre. After lunch (included), visit the Virgin Mary's House set in a neraby hilltop park, and the Ephesus Museum in Selçuk, where many of the choicest relics of Ephesus are displayed. Details & reservations...
Priene Miletus & Didyma (8-1/2 hours)On this full-day tour you'll head south from Kusadasi to Priene, perched on a limestone shelf overlooking the flood plain of the Menderes (Meander) River, the first city ever built on a street-grid plan. Across the flood plain is Miletus, once a proserous port with an enormous, well-preserved theater. Farther south is Didyma with its gigantic marble Temple of Apollo, location of a famous oracle (similar to Delphi) in ancient times. Details & reservations...
Sardis & Jewish Heritage Tour (8 hours)On this private Jewish heritage tour you'll visit various Sephardic synagogues, grandest of which is the Roman Synagogue at Sardis, east of Izmir. You'll also see Sardis' great--but never completed—Temple of Artemis and other sights. Details & reservations...
Kusadasi to Antalya via Pamukkale (full day)From coast to coast, Aegean to Mediterranean: have a private car and driver-guide take you from Kusadasi eastward up the Meander River valley to Pamukkale (Hierapolis), where you'll enjoy a swim in the naturally warm mineral waters before continuing southeastward through the mountains, down to the Mediterranean littoral and Antalya, the resort "capital" of the Turquoise coast. Your driver-guide will take you right to your hotel and assist you with your luggage—what a way to travel! Details & reservations...

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